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On this page:

*Purchasing procedures

*Preparing for a puppy 

*Keeping up on Overall Good Health information

*Our puppies early life here with us

*Spay/Neuter/Breeding rights policies (MOVED to a sub page of Health Info)

*Shipping info for those that may need it

2023 /2023 litters
Belle and Boss had their 2024 litter on January 8th!
4 Males and 5 females
See German Shepherd Puppies page for info and pictures

WAITING LIST FAMILIES:

When you see your litter has been born, please reconnect with me if I haven't done so with you yet! I have missed families in the past so a  quick note from you stating your continued interest will assure you

of not missing out! 

If you are transferring a Deposit from a past litter, make sure to respond with a "confirmation or decline" when you get the birth announcement.  Otherwise you will be bumped down the pick list as the other deposits and email confirmations start to come in. They go FAST, so it's up to you to make sure you respond with a confirmation. 

I care a great deal about the lives of our pups, and because I used to be a part of rescuing Puppy Mill dogs, I know some of the Mill breeders' tricks when it comes to registrations. They will often take an AKC Limited registration and use it to gain registration with another less strict registry, most often those breeders will use CKC or UKC (**CKC COULD BE the world recognized and respected  "CANADIAN Kennel Club"  but could also NOT be, so check with the breeder before assuming) and so I am very strict about registration papers and breeding rights. We do have a strict spay / neuter policy regarding 'pet only' papers (Limited) and it is in the agreement as well as almost every page prior to actual purchase.


We're not against full registration (for breeding rights) but that responsibility should  include the careful health testing by ethical breeders. After all we also fit into that category. So If you are looking for breeding rights (aka 'Full AKC'), please inquire upfront. There is a different agreement/contract involved in that responsibility. Please let us know PRIOR to placing the deposit, it will save us both a lot of time. Our breeding rights contract is pretty strict in order to protect our pups from unethical  backyard breeders and  from puppy mill breeders who would use the "Limited" registration to gain registration under another registry, and then unethically and indiscriminately breed the dog and then sell the pups as "registered". We DO have a few serious and careful breeders out there that have our pups, but a careful screening and separate contract is part of the process.

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Beginning the Purchase Process

If you've already done your research and have chosen us, then the Questionnaire is usually the first step. (sometimes we've already communicated and have all the info that's on the questionnaire) the Questionnaire is not intrusive, we don't ask personal questions (and we aren't against kids. in fact our home is filled with kid activities and noises, from toddler to pre-teen) it's a short and easy questionnaire that simply gives us a good idea of what is expected of the pup and for the pup's lifestyle so we can make suggestions as to which pup might fit you best. (The final decision is yours of course, but if we didn't care we wouldn't ask, right? and yes we DO care about where out pups go!.) When the Questionnaire comes back, I'll send an Invoice for Deposit. After that it's just a matter of waiting for your next addition to the family! 

Pick a Responsible Breeder

Whether getting your next family member from us or another responsible breeder, one of the most important pieces of the purchase process is many times not even thought of. That is that there are many different types of breeders, and it's best to know which type you're buying from.   

KNOW the differences  between registries (Some are knock offs and will NOT be recognized by AKC. 

 Example: CKC is a a Canadian registry, recognized and respected worldwide, but there is another CKC that is NOT recognized and that one is Continental kennel club... and it will register just about any dog with minimal proof of purebred status 

​

KNOW the differences between the types of breeders that are out there:

The Professional Breeders, the Hobby Breeders, 

the backyard breeders and the mill breeders!

This is important because some breeders don't screen for genetic health so it can be quite a huge gamble for you if they have bred one carrier of an issue to another carrier of that issue. Just because the parents aren't showing symptoms of the issue doesn't mean they won't throw pups who WILL HAVE the issue!

Choose your breeder carefully, making sure the dogs they have are registered with an accredited registry such as

AKC. This gives you a much better chance at

finding a RESPONSIBLE breeder.   

  

 A Responsible Professional Breeder can come in many sizes, from just a small operation to very large ones, but no matter their size, their operation is specifically set up for it, and they will be a great resource of information about their breed, it's health, it's history, it's good points as well as it's challenges. They know responsible breeding is a full time dedication, they run all the health checks they can possibly do, they're prepared for breeding and birthing problems, they provide the space and the care that breeding demands, they love what they do and and they take it seriously! they screen the potential adopters to make sure their pups get placed in responsible homes, & they offer support for their adopters. They're confident in what they have because they've put the work into it, and thus they have a guarantee in place and stand by it. If there were to be a complaint, they would do their best to work with the buyer...It helps a great deal to be able to see how a complaint might be handled as well. Hopefully, the breeder is transparent about this aspect and they're open on how they deal with it...For instance:  if there was a legitimate complaint, did the breeder work with the buyer? How did the breeder handle it? Were they fair? Do your research.  The responsible breeder will have a plan in place to work with the rare problem that might come up.

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The Hobby Breeder doesn't breed on a regular basis, so they aren't set up for it. They may or may not do genetic health screenings, may or may not do pedigree screenings for compatibility and the avoidance of inbreeding, and may or may not screen their potential adopters. Without  these screenings, many pups may end up with health issues, or if the adopters aren't screened, then the pups may end up dumped as their "newness" wears off 

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The backyard breeder is a random dog breeder, they don't do any health screens or pedigree studies, and as long as two dogs are purebred they'll see them as 'good enough' and they breed them. Unfortunately this breeder would be a risk as you don't know the genetic health of the parent dogs, or whether the pedigrees are compatible....

 

And of course everyone knows about the mill breeder, the worst of the bunch!

They often have several different breeds and just mass produce without care 

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So find a responsible breeder that cares, one that is professional about it, is set up for such a serious endeavor, one that is knowledgeable about their breed, and that health screens. Responsible breeding takes dedication and ongoing education. A good breeder will also be screening you as a potential puppy home (sometimes without you even knowing you're being interviewed LOL), and they don't mass produce, breeding  15, 20, 30 dogs or more!  And just because one might have have a breeding license doesn't mean the living conditions are the best.  Even a mill can be 'licensed' and take "staged/stacked" photos!  Check the place out: Do they have large natural spaces?  Does the pups' area look large, natural and clean? Once you've found the breeder you would like to work with, ask questions. A good breeder will happily answer the questions, it's usually our favorite topic! LOL ...and because they could be screening you as well as you screening them. .... 

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And for those looking for pups with breeding rights... That is the hardest decision if you plan on being responsible about it.  It's a TOUGH and expensive job that takes a deep love & devotion to the breed, and passion for the many processes if you intend to do it right. 

Some breeders give out full rights without a screening process, on EVERY pup they produce. Their heart may be in the right place (or not, ...maybe it's just money driven) but many times those dogs will end up as backyard breeders or mill breeders dogs. The pairings of mates will not be have been carefully selected, the pedigrees will not be have been studied for compatibility or the possibility of inbreeding, the health of both dogs will not have been screened for gene compatibility, the healthy living conditions and care will be minimal at best, and then their offspring go on to breed to other dogs that are haphazardly put together as well, not health screened, etc..... and the domino effect continues! THAT is not helping our beloved breed...or ANY breed!..The offspring from those dogs could carry hidden faulty gene traits and issues into the next generation, and the next and thus the cycle of bad continues.

PLEASE don't contribute to that cycle. Please choose a responsible breeder that cares!

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BE an INFORMED buyer:

We absolutely adore this  breed and are devoted to protecting it. Please educate yourself on the different registries, what they're being used for, and what unethical people are doing by using those registries... They are taking pet quality.  AKC limited  dogs and putting them on a knock off registry so they can bypass the Limited status and breed the dog anyway, and then selling you the offspring as "registered". There are several reasons why an AKC pup may be sold with Limited registration and you may be inheriting the issues and even worse that unethical breeder may be selling you a pup with life long health issues if the breeder is not health screening both parent dogs!

  

Be aware that not all registries are the same! 

The 3 registries today here in the U.S. The AKC is the oldest and the only one recognized and accepted worldwide. 

We only use AKC

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AKC vs other "registries"

(the following info is long.... but very VERY important to ALL dog lovers!

​"Know what you want, learn what to look for / watch out for."

There are other registries used by some breeders here in the U.S. but those registries are not as strict as the AKC. Almost any dog that even LOOKS purebred can be registered (As a young adult, I once had a 1/2 black Lab - 1/2 German Shepherd (Angel) that LOOKED purebred German Shepherd. Today I could have registered her as a PUREBRED and then sold her pups as registered!! Although she was an AWESOME dog, she was definitely not purebred at all!..SO BE CAREFUL of the less respected registries)

 

  Long ago I became aware that some people will take an "AKC Limited" dog and register that dog with one of these "knock off" registries so they can sell the offspring as "registered" to unsuspecting and uninformed buyers. (I sometimes wonder if one of our own buyers has done exactly that with the pup he bought. He was VERY unpleasant and even threw threats at me to try to force me to give full breeding rights!)... Please don't buy from the unethical people! That encourages MORE unethical behavior from more of them!

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There may be a REASON as to why an AKC pup was under a limited registration. It is an honor code of sorts I suppose, but to protect our pups from that unethical and sneaky way of breeding, our Limited pups go with a spay/neuter contract. That one pup buyer snuck in under the screening process 'radar' and I pray for the well being of that poor pup. On the brighter side, he was what prompted us to rewrite the Purchase Agreement.

Please be careful when looking to purchase a purebred pedigreed pup. These people that use the 'knock off registries simply want sell the pups as "registered", but don't want to go about obtaining a properly bred and registered AKC pup. There are many reasons an AKC breeder might choose to sell a pup without full breeding rights. 1) Most good breeders will carefully screen for proper, experienced breeding homes only before giving out Full Breeding rights registrations. 2) The breeder usually will keep control of the papers to guide and teach a new breeder how to screen and choose a proper mate and which health screens, etc etc etc, all things that go along with proper breeding practices, and 3) That particular dog could be a 'carrier'... unaffected - but a carrier ... of a gene that could be passed on to the offspring, and then even CAUSE a health issue if that offspring dog is bred to ANOTHER carrier, thus the responsible breeder will not allow those pups to go to an inexperienced 'breeding' home.

 

Breeding is a huge responsibility and isn't meant for the average person just wanting to make a few bucks. It's very dangerous to the breed to allow just anyone full breeding rights, especially those who aren't carefully screening each potential breeding pair.

If an "AKC Limited" pup is purchased by an unethical person, that person will then register the pup under another registry just so it's offspring can be sold as "registered", and THAT is unethical in itself so who would trust them?? and that practice could also be the cause of the recurring health issues that should be gone by now! 

The buyer I mentioned above put me through a most unpleasant experience, the most unpleasant I have ever gone though but in the end I learned that I must change our contract. He threw some very rude accusations and made threatening demands while trying to force me to give full breeding rights. (this is MONTHS after he bought the pup and took it home, and NO he did NOT get full registration rights despite his tantrums)  Because of the manner in which this person demanded it, my suspicions now are that he is/was breeding this pup in spite of the AKC Limited status.  .... So watch out for those using other registries. Ask LOTS of questions and make sure you understand what the breeder is doing... some of the least ethical people will be using these "other " registries to get around the very important AKC Limited vs Full options. 

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Take note: **AKC will NOT accept these two other registries (ACA and CKC *Continental) for use as changing a Limited Reg to a Full status) ....AKC is pretty strict about accepting foreign registries as well. Certified documents plus tattoos or microchips for proper ID are required if the dog is coming from another country.....

As far as AKC alternative registration goes, called "PAL", (Pet Alternative Listing) that is for companion and sporting events,  it does NOT mean the offspring from those dogs will be register-able. Those dogs are NEVER meant for breeding and are NEVER able to be registered as AKC Full, and can never compete in Conformation which is reserved for breeding stock only.  Be aware of what the breeder is talking about when registration is brought up.

So be informed, and don't let yourself get conned!

If you're looking for a 'breeder dog', please check the sub page "Spay/Neuter/Breeding" (under the 'Health Info' pg) for important neutering/spaying/breeding rights information. We are pretty strict in regards to the responsibility of breeding. It's a very serious undertaking and we don't give out that responsibility lightly. A separate contract is involved to keep our pups safe

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When you've decided we're the ones for you

We do require a questionnaire be filled out before a deposit will be accepted. (You may have already noticed we don't have an 'automatic payment button' or any "click here" button to place a deposit) These are not "items" on a store shelf, these are living sweet little beings, we love them very much and strive to adopt them into homes that will love them as much as we do. We want to know where they are going!

 

The Questionnaire is not overly intrusive. We believe in YOUR rights to privacy as well as our pups' rights to good homes...We just ask a little about you and your home in order to make the best fit per pup: For instance: what are the expectations of the puppy and where will the puppy live (indoor/outdoor/both?), your experience with German Shepherds, etc. These are a couple of the questions we ask in our Questionnaire. The information in the Questionnaire seems very basic, but it tells us a lot and helps to match the family to the puppy as close as possible. We give our opinion and can recommend which one(s) we think might fit you best, but the final decision is yours, sometimes another pup and family just "click" and that is ok as well and is rarely wrong!!  

 

When you've chosen a puppy from our home, we don't expect them to be a backyard or kennel dog, you are adding a member to your family, so go ahead, go shopping, puppy proof your home and.....be excited for the new member of your family!

ALSO, We would prefer you come to meet and greet, but if you need to fly in to pick up your pup, please let me know ahead of time so I can arrange the Flight Certificate with my vet. Flying in to pick up your pup is the most cost effective and safest if you are not close enough to drive. Shipping a pup can be risky and can cost anywhere from about 400 - 500 or more depending on where the pup is going (Portland PDX is our airport) so booking your own round trip flight to pick up the pup is less expense as they usually run far less than the 500+ it would cost to ship a pup.  Many families HAVE flown in, or even taken a few days leisurely road trip to pick up their pup.  This is also a great bonding time plus we live in a beautiful area well worth exploring. 

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This information below gives the breakdown of these costs. Compare that to a round trip flight for one person and you'll see that is indeed better to come pick up the pup. We will make sure the Flight certificate is done and we will arrange to meet you at the airport if you need us to.

Shipping costs include a pre-flight fee of $150 this includes the Vet issued Flight Certificate, a crate (medium sz, up to 50lb for a pup, more for an adult), and transport to airport (225 miles round trip)

 Patience is a virtue!

Because I don't force their matings and I don't do artificial insemination, patience is SO important! Nature is on her own time frame and can change things when we least expect it. Some females are early to be ready, others are not and might not decide to be ready until they are 3 yrs or older. Each female has a different time frame, just as we humans do. Some of us make GREAT parents at a young age, some of us do not and wait until later. (For example, my mom had her 1st child when she was 18, but I didn't get  to be a mom until I was 30) We are not clones of one another, and neither are dogs. ....Because we allow nature to be the guide as much as possible around here (as long as the health screenings are good of course!) some females might be ready early at close to 2 yrs, while some might wait a long time, it's up to nature, so patience truly is a virtue ;)

 

  For correspondence records purposes, email is preferred. 

 I'm subjected to so many spam calls, if I don't recognise the number I probably won't answer it, but please leave a message, I will get back to you as soon as possible. I do prefer email for several other reasons too, one is for "correspondence records". This is crucial for proper record keeping and I can't save phone conversations! Of course if you just want to chat, that is ok too, many of my puppy families call just to keep me updated! However, please remember that email is best!

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  Deposits:
A $150 Non-Refundable deposit is required to secure a pick place or pup. I try to keep it low so as to be as family friendly as possible, but these fees all go towards litter maintenance, so they are important.

....... Getting on the Waiting List does not require a deposit.

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*** If Circumstances change after placing a deposit ...If you have already placed your deposit, and you "back out" for any reason, you can transfer your deposit to a future litter. (Deposits are NON Refundable) Keep in mind that we do not transfer the "pick place"  nor do we do a "price freeze" to the future purchase.
 
  Picking your pup:

1st Picks need to be selected no later than 6 weeks (earlier if you want!) and the next in line needs to pick by 7 weeks of age, the next one ASAP after that (right behind the 2nd, so keep an eye on the changes as picks are made), and then the next in line, and then next etc etc in order to keep the line moving  and so I know which ones go where/to whom by 8 weeks. If for some reason you are unable to make your pick on time, I will move the next person in line up into your spot in order to keep everything moving. Please be mindful there are others in line and I have to know which ones will need their travel certificates and that involves others' time such as the vet and the other family's airline schedule if needed.  

IMPORTANT NOTE: If YOU delay choosing your pup for any reason, the next family in line will be moved up to make their pick and your place will be moved down one spot. I will notify you and give you a day to respond, before I move the other family up into your spot. We MUST keep the line moving as smoothly as possible. Sometimes I need to make flight certificate arrangements that include strict legal time restrictions, strict appointments with our vet.. It would not be fair to keep these people waiting, to be forced to change appointment times with my vet (that could be a HUGE time difference).  Please watch the line up behind your name (it's always posted and updated within minutes of a pick choice) and be respectful of those waiting behind you. Sometimes there are  many pups and the last in line NEEDS to have their pup picked in time for the Flight Certificate to be done.

 

VISITS:

One of the most common questions I get is "When can we visit?" A very important question that everyone should ask, right? So, here it is: Visits with the puppies can happen any time after 4 weeks old (immature immune systems of the puppies make earlier visits too much of a risk) Visits after that are pretty open with a few minutes "heads up" from you, but I'm usually home (I work from home) A quick check in with me to see if I have plans for your time frame is always a good idea though! 

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Prepare For Your New Puppy

#1... If you don't have any training skills, PLEASE set up a training program so you learn how to train! The pup will benefit a great deal from those training sessions. What the trainers do is teach YOU how to train your dog. Too many pups are 'dumped' when they hit the "teen stage" (that's at ABOUT 10 months to 18 mo old) and it's usually due to "behavioral problems" ....all because they didn't receive the all important foundation of basic obedience from the time they come home! ("No", Off", Drop it, Sit, Come, Down, Stay and leash walking~POLITELY!) And then USE these skills throughout every day so they learn their manners! For instance:  "no" you can't pull at my skirt... "SIT" if you want this treat or toy" , "OFF the table or my legs", DROP IT" because that is dangerous or not a toy,... See what I mean? They absolutely NEED this training to become a part of everyday life in your home. They need structure or they won't know what to do with themselves and that causes trouble as they get bigger and stronger, entering their "teen stage". A lack of this basic obedience structure can cause all kinds of behavioral problems,

and early training is a MUST

List of things for

"Pick up day"

Items you will receive:

The Purchase Contract/Guarantee/Informational.

The pup's vet exam info

Receipt for the balance paid

A sample of the puppy food they're eating

A supply of Sodium Ascorbate

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Items to bring with you:

A collar and leash (for safety purposes)

A towel or blanket ("just in case")

A bottle of water for long rides home

Something for the pup to drink out of

Balance owed (cash only)

 

Letting me know a time frame for when you expect to be here is a good idea too, so I can make sure the pup hasn't eaten right before you pick him/her up! This will lessen the chance of accidents or tummy upsets on the ride home. Their breakfast time is about 8:30, lunch is around 1:00 - 1:30 and dinner is about 6. This should help you plan a time around their meals....however, if you need a specific time that isn't meal friendly just let me know so I can work around it. I can feed your pup a little earlier than the other pups, no problem.

Set up your team of vets: combining the skills of a conventional vet and a holistic vet gives your pup the best of both worlds.. Since so many ask for suggestions of Holistic vets in your area, and it can change from one year to the next, I've added two links here to help you find one:

1)  https://www.ahvma.org/find-a-holistic-veterinarian/

2)  http://www.drpitcairn.com/referrals/anhc-referrals/

 

Be prepared to start training your pup, The younger this starts the better and happier the dog and the family will be together! Teaching basic obedience and using it every day to teach manners eliminates a lot of problems some have as the pup matures. Check into the vast selections of training options at your fingertips available in today's world. Have fun with it!

One of my favorite channels to watch is "FIDO tv" . Check it out! Lots of training tips and just general information on canines. On that educational channel, you'll see the difference between a dog out of control with it's owners and the almost instant change in the same dog as soon as the trainer takes over. The difference? The trainer takes an authoritative role and the dog responds.... often times right in front of the owners. Please take that authoritative role with your pup. Be fair, be consistent, but also have fun, play often, and always be the authoritative one in his/her life.... It WILL make a big difference and forms a very tight bond!

"Good Health" depends on us both:

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 Our end: Our parent dogs have all been DNA health tested for 50 GSD issues (including DM) plus 100 other non GSD issues. We make sure their pups are healthy and ready to go to you. They get the best love and attention from us, and their preventive care is kept as natural as possible in order to keep the chemical load to a minimum. They get their 1st shots at the very least before leaving for your home, then, as a final good health precaution, we require you to take your pup in for a "well puppy exam" to your own vet within 72 hrs of receiving your puppy to make sure they get continued health care without interruption. **This Well puppy Exam is required for the Guarantee!! This is such an important step both for us as the breeder and you as their new family and home!

 

Your end: Their ongoing good health once they leave here will depend on you. They can thrive as well as our old dogs do, but you need to make good health choices in order for them to thrive as well as ours! Just as we as humans need to make healthier choices and watch what we eat, so do our dogs deserve at least that!

We have given them the best start with healthy parents, healthy diets, healthy environment, and natural preventives and care as much as we possibly can, keeping the chemical options as a last resort, not the first. That makes a HUGE difference. A healthy dog depends on ongoing healthy choices.

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Our old dogs that are still here ...Ol' Zeke was born in '09,  and still acts like a pup when 'his' kids visit (they're now adults and parents of their own kids!) Gramma Yva was born in '08 and she stayed here with us until she passed away at 13 yrs old. Another old gal of ours, Lady (mix breed born in '05) was active right up to the end. She just passed away in 2019. Gunther was born in 2011. He does limp now and then from a horse kick when he was younger, but we have him on supplements now as he's elderly and that keeps it controlled) So barring any injuries, they all behave like pups well into their geriatric years. 

 

Keep your pets as natural as possible, feed a healthy limited ingredient (no corn, wheat, or soy). And although I believe RAW is best, I know we all can't afford it, me included. I treat with human grade food treats, (we never give processed commercial treats!) I don't let chemicals overload their systems, (we avoid herbicides, pesticides, medicines/treatments/ preventives, and always choose natural whenever possible), we don't spay/neuter while they are still growing and don't forget the fresh Vit C rich veggies and give Sodium Ascorbate daily for a growing pup, and we give it at least 3 times a week for an adult dog. In our research we have found that in all of the successful studies, they always used the form Sodium Ascorbate, so that is what we use here and require for our pups as well.

* * Dosing Sodium Ascorbate daily to a pup: five milligrams per pound (so about 250 milligrams for 50 pounds. I use teaspoon measurements, so I give 1/8 t to my adult dogs). Sodium Ascorbate is the best form of Vit C for dogs, other types can cause tummy issues or  are calcium based and that is not something you want to overdo on your pup, so give Sodium Ascorbate!  Adjust the dosage according to the dog's weight. Spread the dosage throughout the day for a pup eating 3 times a day. I give Sodium Ascorbate a few times a week to all adults and daily to the pregnant moms and then pups. 

If you keep all this in mind, your pups should be as happy and healthy as our geriatric crew! 

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Please check out our Health Info page. SO much information that many people say they never heard of  before!

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Food will be a big factor in his/her Overall health :

Food quality is the primary concern when it comes to your dog's overall health!! A very high percentage of today's problems (for all of us!) are linked to food http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com/homemade-dog-food-recipes.html

Their diet will be a big factor in their over all lifetime health! Many of the issues plaguing our pets today come from their food / the over use of toxins, etc. All the dogs that I have ever personally known, or heard of, that lived WAAAAY beyond the "normal" years, (some up to 20 years!), were fed human food, had minimal chemical meds (natural remedies were the "go to" treatments.. kibble was never a part of their daily diet! Weird right? (That's just something for us all to think about).

A good "rule of thumb" is to stay away from kibble listing corn or soy as a main ingredient, and make sure the recent "recalls" aren't from your brand of choice. These seem to be the primary problem ingredients in food problems today.

http://thebark.com/content/gmo-are-genetically-modified-crops-safe-your-dog-food

and:

http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2016/02/29/aflatoxin-salmonella-pet-food.aspx?e_cid=20160229Z1_PetsNL_art_1&utm_source=petsnl&utm_medium=email&utm_content=art1&utm_campaign=20160229Z1&et_cid=DM100858&et_rid=1378891211

 

Obesity is another common health danger, please keep an eye on their weight, obesity for them is just as dangerous as it is for us : http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2015/02/12/risk-factors-pet-obesity.aspx?e_cid=20150212Z1_PetsNL_art_1&utm_source=petnl&utm_medium=email&utm_content=art1&utm_campaign=20150212Z1&et_cid=DM67127&et_rid=837986229

 Slide show of a few past pups and the lifestyle here with us

Vaccines, Meds, and Plant Safety

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Vaccines: I believe in shots, (all of mine get them)  but please don't over do it! Try a "Titer" test instead of the ongoing booster vaccine schedules as an option.....(a titer test will tell if the anti-bodies are already there or if another vaccine is needed).....Studies have shown that over-vaccinating can cause serious health issues.

Vaccinosis: http://www.thedogplace.org/VACCINES/Vaccinosis-1_bloomer&Thomason.asp

and: http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/vaccination-reactions-can-mimic-disease-symptoms/

and: http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2012/08/20/pets-over-vaccination-disease.aspx

** and here is another article:
http://www.dogs4dogs.com/blog/2010/09/23/rabies-vaccination-12-ways-to-vaccinate-more-safely/ Quote: "Don’t vaccinate against rabies within three weeks of other vaccinations or medication for parasites. Multiple vaccines given at once greatly increase the chance of reactions". Please stick to the schedules to avoid over vaccinating.

 

Meds for Flea and tick, skin, coat, tummy, teeth cleaning, etc: Here are two helpful sites for all pet owners and their daily needs: http://wolfcreekranch1.tripod.com/ and http://www.natural-wonder-pets.com
​ ***​IMO, these are the most informative sites around for natural based health care supplies! WolfCreek even gives treatment options if your pup is exposed to parvo or any other contagious disease at any time! Wow, it works, I've shared the links with friends, they've reported the remedies worked GREAT in just a day or two! They're amazing! In my opinion, their information on natural health care is extensive and unmatched!.... They offer natural, NO TOXIC OR CHEMICAL health products for the "daily care, preventive care or after exposure care" of our pets.)
 

 

Are you a trail runner or jogger? Check this link out for some tips to keep your dog in shape for this: *Puppies should not be run long distance or hard until fully developed at about 2 yrs old.
​http://www.grindtv.com/lifestyle/pro-active/post/run-with-your-dog-and-build-a-happier-healthier-life/
​

12 plants at the top of the poisonous list:

Toxic to pets: Castor Bean, Caladium, Lilies, Dumb Cane (dieffenbachia), Rosemary Pea, Larkspur, Foxglove, Autumn Crocus, Sago Palm, Black Locust, Yew, and Oleander. P:LEASE be aware of the plants your pets can get into!

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Yard and garden safety: I love my gardens and my dogs. To have them co-exist is very important to me and to you too I'm sure. Please look up poisonous plants you should watch for. To start you off I've included this link http://www.earthclinic.com/Pets/poisonous_plants.html Generally it's the same for kids as it is for dogs, so make sure you know the dangerous plants around your home. Holly berries, philodendrons, Calla lilies, Iris, and poinsettia are among the common. Also roses, they might chew on and ingest the thorns! Please find out if the plants you have or may add in the future are safe for pets.
You can enjoy your beautiful yard AND your four legged family member.... it IS possible!

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Public areas and respectful puppy owner etiquette: Remember to keep your pup leashed, not only for the safety of an accidental "run off" but for your puppy's safety when out in areas populated by other dogs that may not welcome the approach of a bouncing puppy. Also, do you know the importance of a "Yellow Ribbon"? A yellow ribbon attached to the other dog means approach with caution....it could be that the other dog is new to the handler, or is easily excitable and may jump, or is just not used to strangers, or some other reason, this ribbon is a warning for others to be careful when approaching. Be careful when you are out with your pup. In the horse world a red ribbon is attached to the tail of a horse that spooks easily when approached from behind, or may kick at another horse or person that gets too close from behind. These are the little "caution" flags to always be aware of

***All information throughout this website, with links where available, are simply intended to expand public awareness of info / knowledge and of frequently unknown options. You can take it or leave it, it's up to each individual to expand their knowledge or not, but either way we believe the best pet family is an informed pet family***

All families are encouraged to keep in touch with questions and updates! I won't intrude on you, I do believe in your privacy, but I do like updates and do need your Well Puppy Exam results for our records. ALL questions and concerns are answered and never thought of as a "bad question" or frivolous, (yes I'll smile at some, but they are ALL welcomed!). If you need me at any time as your puppy is growing and even after he/she is grown, I'll be there for you as long as you want me to be. (a funny story I like to share is about one of my puppy families needing me for some training issues and I was walking him through it as my daughter was in the hospital ....in labor with her first child! LOL. I kept answering those texts while she was giving me the "look" ....but my puppy family needed me and her baby wasn't actually coming YET!!... needless to say, I learned not to do that again LOL)

.... If I don't get back to you in a timely manner, please remind me! (a reminder has been needed at times!) Don't be shy, I don't get angry, I encourage it! 

 

Every puppy comes with a Personal Health Record booklet with shots and de-worming information records that your vet will want to see. A report of the "Well Puppy Exam with your vet within 72 hours of receiving your puppy" is required for the Guarantee.

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Pictures of "Past Litters" over the  years.

Always raised as natural as possible, always loving! 

Just a thought: That little girl in the photos is now in high school and has purchased and owns her own car! YIKES! How time FLIES! 

Past litters Videos:

www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRZ9iKKqUgI&feature=youtu.be

 

http://www.youtu.be/69W11T4Qc3g

 

Story time: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNeHCOOE2vI&feature=youtu.be

 

5.5 week old litter in their field: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ywnjSgJCqkc&feature=youtu.be

 

6 week old litter from 2013: ​http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocp2hT-U_fs

 

6 week old pups from Elsa's Christmas Eve litter

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCHeADCFBxI

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