mobile device page menu
Be sure to check out our Service Dogs (sub page under "Our GSDs") and "Reviews" page for photos and updates on our pups!
Please make restroom stops before visiting your puppy. We have kids,teens & a single bthrm so a public access is not possible
We are a family with our dogs. We don't have pups all the time, so Deposits are strongly suggested. Deposits are by Invoice. accepted via Paypal. Balances by cash
Pearlinhaus@gmail.com We don't use brokers and we avoid telemarketers, so please email or text or leave a voice mail and we'll go from there.
Email: Pearlinhaus@gmail.com
Text: 509-250-0816
Deposits via
Paypal Invoice
If you're viewing on a mobile device, please check out the full version via PC for added info and pics
A Glimpse into
the Life of our Pups
(and few words of guidance when choosing a pup for yourself)
Your Puppy's Beginning
Our breedings are based on my female's health / attitude between heats/litters. Some 'moms' are ready earlier than others, some refuse and aren't ready until they're 3 yrs old or older, and most fit in the middle of those ends of the spectrum. I don't force a pregnancy with any of my females, your puppy's beginning is as natural as possible. I don't use AI (artificial insemination) on them. If they're ready, they're ready, if they're not I won't force them. It's nature's choice, their well being comes first!
Our moms give birth in our home, usually in my bedroom, and the puppies get their routine preventives and vitals taken while still here and my vet will get them started on their vaccines. These puppies are loved on from day 1 by everyone in the family.
I believe in the mix of conventional and natural health information for our dogs. In our experience, no 'one theory' seems to work best alone, and blending the two theories is what we have found works best.
I also prefer to use natural preventives whenever possible instead of regular administrations of chemical treatments. http://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2013/02/08/immunonutrition.aspx
Slides of Random pics of our past litters before they went home
Choosing your "type" of pup
Within the breed of the German Shepherd many traits have been brought out of the original and maximized into select "lines" . But they're all from the same group that started it over 100 years ago.
Because many of the original traits have been selected and maximized into these separate "lines", think about what you're looking for in your new family member. For instance, if you’re looking for a working type drive in a pup, start by looking into those that have those lines, but also make sure to assess the pup, to make sure it’s got the high drive you may need for that particular line of work. Just because the dog is “from working lines” doesn’t mean every pup in a litter will “make the cut” for actual work, and others in that litter could be too much drive for a non working family life. What do they do with their excessive energy?? They get unsettled because they just can't seem to fit in and chaos erupts.
While we focus on Family minded and Service Dog minded pups, our lines are a blend of working and non working. We have found over the years that this blend works best for our purposes. However, because of that blend we do occasionally have a high drive working minded pup. These pups are NOT intended for a life without a job, they most likely will NOT make a good "pet", so keep this in mind!: When I mention that a pup is a “working type” or work minded, I really MEAN it.
The high drive working line/work MINDED pups are never intended for a family life without a job. They NEED a job. This does NOT guarantee they will make the final cut in the long run for whatever job you have in mind, but it does mean that they would be the best candidates. These pups are usually NOT a good fit for a family life that doesn't give the outlet of strict training or some type of active work. Again, I cannot stress enough that they need a JOB.. When they don’t have a working outlet for their energy, drive and mind, they can become more than a family is able to handle, and can become unsettled and dangerous because they are always asked to keep their pent up energy controlled, thus causing problems from stress. Not having that job to release their pent up energy is too hard for a young work minded dog.. Many times a family will do their best to control that drive, to keep it down to a more calm level, but that doesn’t work, and in fact will probably backfire as the dog was born with a very high drive, born to WORK!
So learn about the traits you will need for a working dog ... for instance a fearful pup will avoid eye contact, where a strong pup will look you straight in the eye) There are other things to look for of course, but if you're looking for a high drive working dog, and are serious and honest about your ability to properly train one, you will know these two things, and the other things to look for as well.
For all other families, do NOT get a working dog if you are not equipped to properly train one!
Remember, not all pups are the same, even from a same litter.
For example: Not all pups from a working line litter will make the cut for police work. And not all "lap breed" pups will be calm lap pets. The bloodlines are just guidelines, a great place to start, but you still need to do your part and test the pup to see if it will fit your lifestyle. ….
And most important: PLEASE be sure that what you think you want is really what you want. A high drive, work minded pup will NEED to have a knowledgeable person to train it and guide it, knowing that it has a tremendous amount of drive that will need a direction to apply that drive to. Without that knowledgeable trainer, it will become unsettled, destructive, uncomfortable, and it can cause complete and utter chaos in your life.
After an unfortunate and sad experience for all concerned regarding a working pup that didn't have that teacher, we will now ask what type of work you intend to train the pup for. If there's no plan in place for a 'job' for the dog, it will not be considered a good match and we will not let the pup go. They MUST have a job.
From our home to yours:
We get to know the pups very well as they grow. We watch them change almost daily at times! We see how they react to things that startle them, how they play with each other, how they play with toys, with us, and how they react when they notice something coming into "their" territory. We also do temperament testing on our pups. It's a very simple test of how they respond to a variety of things, such as sudden loud noises, being held, do they follow, do they retrieve, etc. This gives us a little insight to their personalities.
Early Socialization:
Early socialization is so important to a family dog! Our pups are handled every day from birth on, they also receive a gentle stress exercise from day 3 to day 16. Soon they are old enough to go out to the securely fenced front yard and start their exposure to outside experiences ....and they love that so much that they often aren't ready to come back in! During these first few weeks, they are exposed things such as a vacuum and other household sounds and scents such as the aromas of cooking and the noises of pots and pans clanging, people chatting, TV, music, different floor surfaces, the quiet of nighttime sleeping and the noise of kids with their sometimes rambunctious noises and play levels. When they come to you, this early socialization should be continued. Dog parks are a big trend, but make sure they've finished their puppy vaccines and make sure to pick the appropriate "pals" for your puppy. Just like with kids, some dogs can be bullies, can be ill behaved, but many are very good play pals with others. These are the ones to chose for your puppy.....and make sure YOUR puppy is not allowed to become one of those ill behaved or bully puppies as well!
Growing from helpless infant puppy to active inquisitive puppy:
When the babies become more active they move out to their much larger outdoor space, for their growing and cleanliness needs! Pups NEED that space once they get to the age of wandering around! Once in the outdoor area, they learn a doggy door for toileting themselves and so they won't be used to a floor surface for their toileting purposes, they will prefer grass or dirt instead of your porch, patio or sidewalk! This makes potty training to your home really easy! (providing you give them frequent and easy access to outdoors of course! preventing a bad habit is easier than trying to break it right? ....Keeping them in a crate all day will ruin all that 'early learning')
The reason our pups are NOT kept indoors, in crates, or only allowed out for playtime as they turn old enough to go out: ....I've received pups that were raised indoors , probably with baby gates or crates, confined to one room as "theirs", and probably with potty pads for toileting..... I'm sure the breeders had the pups best interest at heart, but while this might seem like a good thing, it also teaches the pups that it's ok to potty INSIDE, in the HOME...... That made for VERY hard potty training and also had them preferring my sidewalk or deck over grass or gravel or soil (they were used to smooth surfaces for their toileting I suppose)... NOT something I want ours to learn! Ours go out to their indoor/ outdoor area that includes a "doggy door" when they get old enough and start fussing to go get out of their infant area to potty, this keeps their instinct to leave their "cozy indoor" area and go outside to "do their duty"......
Our pups do have a room all their own, BUT it's out in the barn! It has a doggy door to the outside pen, and the room starts out as just big enough for eating and sleeping, but not so big that they can find a place inside to toilet in. The room is expandable as they grow in their toileting skills. This expandable room is crucial for encouraging a lifetime of good instinctual habits of not toileting inside.
Once they've moved to their much larger, indoor/outdoor area, their life skills just keep expanding from there. They learn to navigate stairs, both on their low platform style play toy (that I recently added to their field area) and climbing the steeper steps to get up on our porch. They are exposed to outside things such as lawn mowers, horses, school kids, Big rig trucks with their jake brakes at times, Farm equipment going by, and other general noises of a country style small town family life. We allow the kids from the school next door to stop and play with them whenever they want in order to get them socialized to kids outside of our own family
House training your pup: They've learned so much in the first few weeks of life! If you keep those lessons going, your success in training will be pretty easy! Once they get home to you, be sure to eliminate the opportunities for "accidents":.... let them out frequently, learn their behavior/body language that tells you they are looking for a spot to potty, and get them outside asap! The usual times are:
1)after eating,
2)after playing,
3) as soon as they are waking,
as well as in between these times! You will learn their behavior as you bond. They were raised to potty outside, so if you keep up their "instinct" habits, most families have reported the pups to have only one or two "accidents" in their new homes, and a few didn't have ANY accidents!! They have a had a good start here!