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Training

Don’t overthink…

It's NOT only about control…

It's NOT about dominance …

And it's definitely NOT about how others perceive you as a dog owner.

It's about TEACHING

Each family unit has its own balance of things. Some need extreme tricks and commands for working dogs, others have a relaxed atmosphere, and most others fit somewhere in between. As long as you are happy, your dog is happy and healthy minded, and it's safe and mannerly,

you've done a GREAT job!

The ONLY thing that is of utmost importance is that you start your training early. If by 9 mo - 1 yr old you have not done the basic obedience, you are going to end up with a badly behaved dog.

This is on YOU, because they do not train themselves. 

Those pups that have come back to me, were brought back at that age due to being "too much" to handle.... When I ask of the obedience training, it's always not been done or not finished, or "will need work". Unfortunately for the pup it will have to leave it's home/family, but fortunately this is a good age for another home to take over and have a really great dog with proper training! 

 

All it takes is dedication to their upbringing. A dog that is allowed to "bring him/her self up" will always be less settled and less confident. less pleasant to be around than one that has already learned the boundaries of good behavior.

PLEASE TRAIN EARLY! 

Alpha & Leader

These two words often bring the wrong picture to mind, yet neither is a bad word for your dog! A good, confident leader, not afraid to “protect his pack” with good decisions, is a safe feeling for your dog, a comfort in the face of confusion, disruptions or tension that might come into his home. Think of him as a toddler child, he needs YOU to make the decisions right? To remain calm and in control things. It’s YOUR responsibility to stay calm and protect the pup not only from danger, but from people that will not follow YOUR instructions when he is young and being taught. …..

Example: ____ I know of a dog that had to be put down WAAAAY too young .....  As a young pup he started acting out, he began herding their kids, snapping at the vet, (he LIKED my vet when he was still here) and was starting to act out towards certain visitors, (one visitor in particular would challenge or “stare down” the pup, for fun, even though the owner had asked him and others to just ignore the pup and not interact nor especially stare him down….  the guy would do it anyway. That’s a perfect example of the owners lack of leadership and protection of the pack in the dog’s eyes. The owner should have taken the lead to protect the pup from the teasing, the challenging from the guy, and put the pup in another room or somewhere away from the guy as soon as she knew the guy was at the door. Give the dog a special treat so it knew it was not being punished. Unfortunately the owner did not protect the pup from the guy’s teasing). It was not just the visitor that broke the pup's confidence though, far from it, it was the many things accumulated that shook his confidence.

Many things in this pup’s life had been done wrong, not with malice or purposeful neglect, but from not understanding how to be a confident and calm Alpha as a strong working line/work minded pup would need.  This dog was still a pup, still learning his world, and yet some started to say he was fearful and dangerous.  Maybe...after all he was so stressed at not knowing how to make the right decisions that he became nervous and unsure of his world and very well could have become aggressive in some situations because of it.

But he hadn’t started that way. He was once a top pick in his litter, afraid of nothing, no noise shook him, he would go forward to investigate anything that startled him, he was the most outgoing, confident, inquisitive and sometimes troublesome of his litter mates (he'd figure out gates, toys, etc so fast!). He simply landed in the wrong home and unfortunately was put down at just 11 months old . Such a heartbreaking tragedy, a beautiful perfect candidate for working, but human mistakes caused him his life.  

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So be your dogs Alpha, it’s LEADER, don’t allow the puppy to become the alpha of the home and family, that’s just so unfair to the dog! If he thinks he must call the shots, things will go wrong. So learn what it takes to be your dogs leader, (but be careful the books you choose! Some think 'Alpha or Leader' means to “man handle” or bully a pup and that is NOT, let me repeat NOT the case!  Being the Alpha or Leader  simply means not allowing the dog to make the decisions!. .. For instance:  No I will NOT acknowledge you with affection when you jump all over me,  let me put my coat away and relax before you come for “loves”, I’ll let you know when I’m ready for it ….. Want to go out? Then don't claw at me, or jump or try to bully your way through the door, be mannerly and I’ll calmly open the door and allow you to pass through, ….Want this piece of goody? Then no jumping, no fussing at me, no bad manners and I will let you have the rest of my goody. ..... No we’re NOT going to play right now, we’ll play in a few minutes, when I say so …. etc etc  etc By the way, this will NOT take away his protective instincts! It will however build him up to be a wonderful, well mannered happy member of the family, member of his "pack"…

Being a good Leader, or Alpha doesn't take violence towards the pup, it simply means he understands that YOU make the decisions of what and when and even HOW things will be done… Your pup will then learn to follow your LEAD, see how that works? Yes there is more to it, but taking the Alpha role from the beginning is the 1st and most important step! ....

***BTW, Sleeping with you is not a 'no no' in my book, it's a toddler after all, a baby, who just lost it's mother and siblings, it's confused, displaced, and possibly scared that first night or two, so go ahead and camp on the floor with him, (not on your bed) you'll be glad you did!.... 

                             Nuisance Barking is FAR different than Alert barking or Warning barking. I've heard it claimed that German Shepherds are ' yappers '. (sadly I've even heard this from people that HAVE one and so they ALLOW it!)  Well I suppose that's true of just about any breed if they've been allowed to nuisance bark when they were young! I allow and even encourage mine to alert bark or warning bark, but I do NOT allow nuisance barking. Barking IS something that needs to be taught "right from wrong" behavior. So start them off right. Don't break their protection instinct by constantly telling them to settle down and be quiet, but don't allow nuisance barking either. Make sure you know the difference so they also learn the difference!

Training challenges:

No matter how small you start, or how big and advanced you get, this link to a video will help you smile, even on those days when all your work seems to go wrong. Keep in mind that these dogs in the video have been trained to a competition level LOL! So yes even THEY have "those days". ...So stay humble, expect mistakes, love your dog, and above all, Enjoy: https://www.facebook.com/workingdog.eu/videos/699708850070418/

The key to effective training is timing, no matter what you're teaching! Reward only the movement / behavior you want. If you want high energy reward them when they're in that 'frame of mind', if you want calm, reward them only when they're in that frame of mind. Don't reward them for bad behavior (i.e. don't let them in when they start barking at your neighbor, or don't let them out of their crate if they're DEMANDING [as long as you know they don't have to potty!]) Instead, wait until they've settled down to reward them. This part takes patience and consistency. Go out, stop their behavior, wait until they're settled (this part can take a long time, but you MUST be more stubborn than they are determined!) and THEN reward them (let them in/out.)... Good manners take EFFORT from you.

The important thing is to start your pup as soon as possible with easy tasks, (making them wait until you say "ok" before they can go to their food bowl to eat is the easiest one) it's not hard. My 8 yr old grandson is learning how to train his first pup, his little Corgi, and he’s catching on almost as fast as his dog is! (just kidding, LOL!) … But training (TEACHING) your pup is all about showing and teaching rather than FORCING.

Here is a GREAT video to get you started (and it follows our basic beliefs in training as well)…  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BEviipWwyR4

 

I've seen or heard of a few challenges that claim the dog is an aggressive dog when it is actually a dominant dog that has learned that certain techniques get people or other dogs to submit to his/her way. Growling, nipping, lunging, etc all work to get their way, right? People back off, other dogs back off and let them do what they please.... This teaches them they can use all of that to not listen, to ignore doing things YOU ask them to do, etc.... and the dog becomes the dominant element in your family. That causes all KINDS of trouble!... But if those techniques are nipped in the bud right from the beginning, they aren't allowed to grow, then the dog learns they can't get by with it and you won't have an issue. once those techniques no longer work, the dog can be a fantastic dog. But if they have been allowed to be the boss, it takes a knowledgeable trainer to not only RE-train the dog, but to also train the owner!... So don't let your pup get his/her way, EVER! Even as simple as going through the doorway before you or without your permission. YOU go first, or YOU give the "ok" for it to leave the house, the pup should be taught it must wait for you to lead. Everything that he/she does is allowed by you or not allowed by you.  The first time a pup uses an aggressive technique, remove them from the environment, take the food away if that's what they're being aggressive over (that is usually the first time they will try aggression), or at your vet that is trying to do an exam that the pup doesn't want done) ...NEVER let them think that a dominant behavior will win.YOU are the boss, not the pup! If in a vet office, take control, remove the pup from the table, command a "sit" position, then release the sit and put him/her back up on the table... repeat as necessary until it submits to the exam, then praise.   If you do allow that dominant behavior to win, you are setting your dog up to possibly be put down some day with a label of a 'bad dog' when in reality YOU have failed the pup. Here is a GREAT video on the difference between a neurotic aggressive and a dominant dog. This one had been getting his way by using aggressive moves and because it had been working, he continued to use it. He wasn't aggressive unless someone told him to do something or tried to do something with him that he didn't want to do. When not being told what to do he was fine.... Great video, but he does scare people, so be prepared for that. Watch to the end though as the trainer explains the whole process. I hope it reminds you to not forgo PROPER training of your pup. These dominant dogs are rare, but we all should be aware of the trait and train them properly right from the start:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FswX6ChSbnk

Individual Responsibility and Training is a MUST!

Raising a pup starts LONG before you pick up your puppy. If you don't know the basics, please learn about them PRIOR to getting a pup. Many people have ruined an otherwise great pup! Preparing yourself for the responsibility of properly teaching a puppy is THE most important step to dog ownership.

Puppies bark, chew, bite, whine, dig and poop and pee and many will try to "herd"! These are ALL normal behaviors in a pup. It's your responsibility to teach him/her proper manners. Please do this with consistency and without "breaking" the pup!  If you've never raised a pup before sign up with your local training club, there are many are out there! 

The #1 question everyone should ask when out walking and find yourself approaching another person and their dog; 

"Is it best to stay away?"

This allows both parties to either aviod or interact, with friendly relaxed respect to each other. 

What a GREAT question for all involved!!

 https://www.seespotgrin.com/blog/2019/6/5/is-it-best-to-stay-away?fbclid=IwAR18OE7KuNIy3HEWsCV_E3K1s0-XNYGRHaZIaaWr_7A-Q7yYgQiPgzCjfN0

Puppy manners training

Obedience training is one thing - teaching manners is quite another! Only about 20% of the overall behavior will come from basic Obedience training, whether it comes from you doing your own training, or from a club or training class…. However, you really need to understand that the rest of what he is learning from you, such as the manners and expectations of your home and family’s everyday life, will influence 80% or more of his behavior!

It only takes a few seconds to teach acceptable behavior of good vs bad manners. For instance

  • Eating: mine have to sit calmly and wait for their “ok” before they begin to eat. This keeps things a lot cleaner and calmer. I also often hold the dish and take it away from them for a few seconds now and then....just in case I ever need to remove food from them for their safety! I also "examine" their mouths (good practice to teach them to allow me into their mouth! )

  • Going in or out of a door: they must not shoot out in front of me!

  • Furniture:  they need to ask before they can just jump on me while I’m on the couch, and they are NEVER allowed to ‘mouth’, lick or chew it!   

  • Food: when not belonging to them it is OFF LIMITS!  NO STEALING!!

  • Barking demands at me will NOT get you what you want!

  • No nipping/biting at the kids, even in play!!

  • No jumping on people, even in play.

  • Whining works for potty needs, but it will NOT get you food treats or open the crate door!

That’s just a few, it takes time for them to master it all, but they are taught early on for some of these and there are a lot more they will learn as pups. Manners training far outweighs their value than basic obedience training in this home, but they do get BOTH.

 Hopefully your pup will learn FAR more in manners than it will in commands, so make sure you decide which manners you want from them and get those boundaries set right,  right from the beginning! Manners are FAR more important to the peaceful coexistence in your home…. Don’t get me wrong, obedience is also important. For instance you must have obedience in order to be able to stop him from running out into traffic (thus the obedience commands of NO, COME, etc are extremely important)…. but you get the idea, right? Manners make them understand the expectations of your home life, obedience makes them safe when situations may arise that call for strict obedience.

BOTH are important for their overall good behavior! Don’t forget to teach BOTH.   

Start that teaching early on!

Training tools:

#1 Tool....Your state of mind.  Your dedication, your willingness to learn, and even your acceptance that you will never know it all. 

Without a good frame of mind, your struggle will be real. Be open to the possibility of new ideas!

Crate: useful for those times when puppy is still very young and you must be away for short periods of time. It keeps them from getting into things that can be very destructive to your home not to mention very dangerous  for the pup! However they CAN be used in the wrong way! One mistake many have made is to use it as a babysitter....this will backfire and may cause a delay in training, especially House Training! It should only be used for sleeping or short times when you're away or cannot keep your eye on the pup for some reason.. the key to it's usefulness is SHORT TIME periods!

A Fenced yard: This makes things so much easier when potty training especially! It's also much safer as puppies can get to the stage where they don't always want to come when called, so a fence keeps them safe. (one that was returned, caused trouble in their neighborhood because he had not been properly confined.) 

Collar and Leash: These are the most useful tools! The properly used collar or harness should fit comfortably but not be easily slipped out of. The leash should NOT be a retractable leash when training. This actually backfires as well because they learn to "PULL" to gain more freedom. A puppy isn't hard to control on a leash, it's not very strong yet, but if you're teaching that puppy to pull (by using the retractable leash), the 80 - 100 lb adult is going to be a different story! Also, those chords used in retractable leashes can burn your hand if having to grab at it, and the pup can get too far away from you when he/she is in the training stage. Get a 6 or 8ft foot leash to start with instead, it allows a certain amount of freedom, but not so much that a quick correction is not possible. Add longer and longer leads (this can simply be a rope if you want) but they should eventually be able to be 50 ft from you and still listen to you. The gradual lengthening of the distance from you will teach obedience even from across a yard or even park. 

A clicker: ... Some people use them, some don't. It's simply a "timing" tool used to let the dog know a desired behavior is the right one. I don't use one, (I would probably lose it somewhere down the line, or drop it or not get the timing right, etc), but it works well for others when used properly. As with any training, it's all about the timing. I use a simple and happy sounding "YES!, Great Job" and it works for me.

Professional trainer: If you're not experienced with puppies or with an active breed, you should find someone to walk you through the training process. Most good trainers agree that the "Heel" skill is crucial to the training. It keeps the dog's focus on the owner instead of on everything else around you (which can cause bad behavior when out on a walk) It's fairly easy when done right, but when NOT done right (or not taught at all), it can cause some issues that can be hard to correct later.

From potty training, to leash walking, self impulse control, improper techniques can cause a simple problem to escalate into a much bigger problem, so catch those difficult issues in the beginning and you'll be far better off in the long run. Most can do their own training, but for the stubborn problem, or a problem you can't figure out on your own, a trainer can be a very important tool, even for an experienced person. Don't be afraid to have one at your fingertips!

Here are a few videos from different styles/ issues to help you get started: 

Impulse control games  I use the word "NO"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cQnMDOVbeA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQnIWkKJF1g

I use the word "NO", JUST the one word 'no' when I get the bad behaviorm but everything else is the same as in these videos.

 

Clicker training for 'Place' or "go to your mat"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a_zWUa2IMZ0

Establishing your leadership/redirecting: This video takes a "problem dog" and shows how to work through a problem and establish your position as the leader and get his focus off his "triggers" and back where it should be, on you!...  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkYgLq9_4MI

Here's a video regarding a "dog reactive GSD"  (it's actually one of several parts in the progression of this dog) Lilly, Dog Aggressive GSD

 

Training makes a HUGE difference, even an older dog with issues can become a pleasure to be around with the proper training. This video shows the difference proper training can make:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4eiXESC0Uts

 

 

Whatever you find is best for you and your dog, any help you ask for will be welcomed! If one style of training isn't working for you and your pup, find another way, but don't give up. Not all trainers fit every family or situation or even BREED! Just keep at it and all your dedication will pay off in the long run. This is a labor of love, it requires patience and practice and if you stick with it, you can have the best behaved and smartest dog in your neighborhood!

Basic obedience can be mastered at home, but adding distractions is always important if you intend the dog to be a social dog out in public! The more distractions they learn to work around, the better their overall training will be for any social setting! Keep them at "heel" when walking, with short periods of "free" time when convenient and not distracting to others (Free time is still leashed but simply not in the heel position) and it should be on a long line when they're learning (I use a 20 ft or 30 ft training lead) so a quick correction is possible if needed! The quicker your response to a "bad" action, the better it is for the dog to understand what it was that was "bad". The BEST way to stop a bad behavior is for you to understand the body language leading up to each action and be ready for it, divert the dog's focus from it before it even makes the move. Uncontrolled running around with no leash allows them to make uncorrected mistakes (or causes a "too late" response from you), and those "bads" will grow with time if they're not addressed early on! Controlled outings, with EVENTUAL training among distractions, teaches them to control their impulses no matter where they are or what situation might arise. Here is one example of how beneficial distractions can be >  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yg1-Cic9ApU

 

Teach the dog TOLERANCE

Not only do I teach my kids not to tease an animal, to be gentle and careful with them, but I also teach our dogs to "tolerate". Why? Because accidents CAN happen, they DO happen, and if a small child  innocently trips over a toy, a tail or the dog's leg, etc (think toddler) or starts teasing, poking, pulling and no one notices it (yes that is the adult's fault, but putting the blame won't keep a child safe will it?) in both cases if that dog was not taught to tolerate, it may react in a split second. THAT is when things go wrong! .... So teach BOTH...teach the dog tolerance, to NEVER feel that it has the "right" to discipline a small child, and also teach the kids kindness.  

***Some people disagree and think the dog should never have to tolerate....and I agree to a point!.... but if the issue comes up...what if your toddler fell off the arm of the  couch, onto the dog who was sleeping there (it happened in our home!) whose fault is it if the dog reacts in that split second?? Our dog (a GSD mix "Max") yelped and left the area, but only AFTER checking on the child and giving her a kiss. This dog had been taught tolerance and loved 'his' kids so much so that he never once harmed them but protected them a few times throughout his life.

Max, the best dog ever.jpg

Here's a question to think about: Which makes more sense:

A)  A dog that has been taught to tolerate so the child is safe (even if it trips and falls on a dog), and then the child can be dealt with if it had been teasing?

Or B) Only the child has been taught to not tease, yet accidentally trips over a toy, or the tail or feet of the dog and the dog reacts with a bite? The child is now injured and the dog has a 'vicious dog' label and/or is "put down'?......

THIS is why I teach both.... tolerance to the dog, and kindness to the kids. 

Think of it: the ONLY option other than training BOTH is to keep dogs and kids separated at all times, or have not even one second of unsupervised togetherness, (think turning your head to turn on the water in the kitchen or bath when the dog and child are in the room with you. It only takes a split second, there isn't always a "warning" as many claim.  A child can trip in a split second, (those of us with kids know this, right? they trip into tables, they trip over shoes and toys on the floor ...  they trip over everything it seems  LOL!) .... but if the dog was not taught tolerance and the child falls on the dog, you could easily have a damaged child in the blink of an eye...not much of a family dog then, right?....So why NOT teach your dog tolerance, at the same time teaching the kid to not tease?

 

Teach your kid AND your dog!

They ARE safe when they've been taught right! 

Sara and Robert working leash sit and wa

We also get training started (for an added fee) for those who are interested in a jump start

Our "started" pups get a pretty good start while they are here. I use all kinds of rewards and sometimes that reward is just a well earned praise. I'm not a "one size fits all" type of person. These pups are as unique as you and I are and the best training will be the type that is geared towards the individual dog. But as a general rule: If the loving, firm, fair handling coupled with some good old fashioned common sense is continued with them after leaving here, they will flourish and become a much admired dog! A well behaved dog can be the envy of the neighborhood, but if left untrained, or allowed to be "the boss" it can be the annoyance in the neighborhood instead, and not very well accepted into your life and to those around you. Take your responsibility seriously and enjoy all the moments along the way!

Reactive when out on a walk?

One of the most asked about problems owners look for help with is bad manners towards others when they’re out for a walk. My suggestion to them is to learn how to reward the correct decision to take his attention off the “trigger”. To correct the bad and reward the decision to do good.

***Yes, it is the dog’s own decision to obey or ignore your commands.

  

Learn the timing of rewarding! Reward as soon as he changes his focus, away from the trigger and on to you. Timing is everything with dogs and most people get the timing wrong, then get frustrated because their dog’s behavior isn’t getting better and in some cases the behavior actually gets worse. DON’T use the reward to redirect the dog's focus, this could backfire into the dog thinking “Cool! A treat is coming soon after this bad behavior.” Instead, teach the dog to switch his attention away from the trigger and on to YOU. Call his name, and as soon as he turns to look at YOU, then treat him! Correct for trying to focus on the trigger, reward for staying focused on you.

Here’s a pretty good video of what I’m talking about… This one is a little long winded, but you’ll get the idea. Towards the end he takes the leash to help the owner get better timing because she just was not getting it right. Excellent video to help explain things to almost every dog owner, but especially NEW to training! 

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6QXukQyotY

Remember a trained dog is a safe, happy, and loved dog. You don't have to make him/her obey and show affection to everyone that enters your home or yard, (we don't either and they've been known to completely ignore a stranger or keep a watchful eye on them depending on what they "pick up" from a person) but it should be mannerly in your home, and should love, obey and respect the leaders; which is you & your family. If the pup is not trained in manners, it will grow into a dog that will make destructive mistakes in judgement. (for example; do you like your furniture? It may turn into the dog bed or chew toy of you allowed it when the dog was a pup ....or if it misbehaves towards strangers that you are agreeable to, it will be because you allowed it to misbehave like that when he/she was a pup)

Be your pup's leader, teach them good things or take them to obedience school, they look up to you for that leadership. Too many dogs are "owner surrendered" to shelters or the pound due to behavioral issues, but those issues are things that the owner was responsible for teaching when the dog was just a pup, so it's not the dog's fault when they have bad habits! Encourage the best behavior in your pup. For example:  allow an alert barking, but curb nuisance barking (the latter is usually done out of boredom).

 

Did you know that Dogs who have been surrendered by their owners are immediately available for adoption - they do not have the relative "safety" of a mandatory stray hold. That immediate availability also means that if they are not adopted in that very short time frame, they will be "put down"! Their only hope at that point is that a rescue group will be able to take them and buy them more time until adopted. Sad but true. Please teach good things from the beginning to ensure their proper "fit" into the family! If you cannot train them, or can't/won't find a trainer to help you through it, please don't get a puppy or dog!

 

A bit of guidance from a world renown CH German Shepherd trainer, Manfred Heyne: ...."There is no place, according to Manfred Heyne, for force training or [harsh] punishment in the education of the shepherd dog. Force training and harsh physical corrections only serve to weaken or destroy the dog’s confidence, the dog’s willingness to follow its own instincts and the dog’s ultimate ability to work on its own — qualities irreplaceable in the shepherd dog."

......so choose your training carefully, if one trainer isn't getting the results you are looking for, you need to find out why, or choose another trainer/method that fits you and your style. (I really like the "Training Positive" style, but I'm also aware that dogs are not a "one size fits all". They are as individual as humans, what works to teach one may not work for another. Learn their individual personalities and that should be your guideline when teaching) ALL dogs can be good dogs, it just depends on HOW they are being taught. Be responsible, be the leader, and be consistent.

 

Above all, do NOT be the irresponsible owner that allows their unaltered pet to run loose and thus be a contributor to the stray pet overpopulation! Bottom line in the fight to control the over population is to hold each individual responsible for their own pet's running. These "runners" end up breeding indiscriminately thus resulting in litters of "give away" mixed puppies. These unplanned/unwanted and indiscriminately bred litters are the number one cause of our country's over population! The mixed breed is the number one breed in shelters, accounting for over 75% of the shelter populations! No other single breed even comes CLOSE to that number! Please don't let your dog run the neighborhood, especially if he/she is not spayed/neutered.

 

Please don't make your dog live on a tie out whether it be a chain, cable, "runner" or other "tie up". If one must be used, please keep the time frame short, and check on them frequently. Not only can they get hurt (I knew a pit bull that actually hung himself by twisting the chain so tight it killed him) but also because of what it does to a dogs' emotional well being to be "banished to the backyard". It's a rare dog indeed that actually prefers his "space" to be outside. Please watch the video in this link: http://58-chained.dailymegabyte.com/dog-has-surprising-behavioral-after-being-unchained/  A well built and securely fenced yard area is the best for any dog, large or small, and if using a tie out it must also be long, able to 'swivel' to prevent kinks, and be secured! If you think a 30 ft tie out is enough, ask yourself if there are obstacles that the tie out might get tangled up on. That 30 ft can quickly turn into 10 ft or less if it gets tangled in something! And Always keep fresh water available at all times, out of the way so it won't get tipped at any given time. Info on proper tethering: http://www.sporting-dog-news.com/the-truth-about-chain-tethering/

Training speed varies from one dog to the next

Please don't push your dog too hard to master things too fast. So many people complain that their dog is shying from things and no matter how much they try to socialize or desensitize it doesn’t work…. My advice to them is to SLOW DOWN, give the dog time to truly MASTER each step along the way of the training. I have a very high strung Arabian horse and she needs time to process things before she’ll cooperate, but when she does, she'd give me her heart if I asked her for it, ... same with the dogs.

 

Patience is the key, just as with human kids, dogs are individuals; one is not a clone of another. Some are very quick to process information, others take a little more time to think about it, absorb it and then to process it. Expecting one to be just like the other is unfair, just as with kids right? I’ve got one child, a brilliant mind!, but isn’t a social kid. Another one is a social butterfly, also very bright, but craves activity and excitement and less focused on mundane education. And yet another one who is a mixture of those two, has top grades in school, but takes longer to try new things.  Once the new thing is tried, (needing baby steps to get there) LOVES it!.... Each individual will process new information at a different rate, so take your time with your dog, slow down if you find it hesitating to accept something/someone new. Slow down, allow it time to figure it out, and move on when they find it's nothing to worry about. Give them time when they’re young, they may look like an adult, but emotionally they’re still babies and need to take their time in processing the info they’re facing. Don't make a fuss or baby them, or in any other coddling way "reassure" them when they're acting out, just ignore it, give them a pat now and then to remind them you're still there, and let them calm down and process the information before you praise them for change in mind and good behavior, then move on. 

They’re all capable of succeeding, but will do so at different rates. Give them that time, and you won’t be sorry!  

Remember, pushing a young one too fast can ruin an otherwise GREAT dog!

Heavy strenuous training should be held off until growth plates are closed, and please hold off the spay & neutering as well :

http://www.dailydogdiscoveries.com/puppy-growth-plates/

Important Growth Plate information

Hold off on any heavy, strenuous, or rough play that could injure the growth plates until they're closed! This is extremely important and too often forgotten.

Also, hold off on spay or neutering! The sex hormones play a key role in the development of the growth plates and skeletal development.  Spaying or neutering prior to puberty causes a delay in the growth plate closing process. This is often creates a "leggy" dog and makes them more likely to suffer orthopedic problems such as hip dysplasia, CCL injury, and possibly even bone cancer. (please research "dangers of early spay or neuter" )

PLEASE do not spay or neuter young! Wait until after one year old minimum to get this is done! 

More links:

1) http://www.dogs4dogs.com/blog/2015/02/03/spaying-and-neutering-new-warnings-about-health-problems/

2) http://www.dogsnaturallymagazine.com/health-risks-of-early-spay-neuter/

3) http://www.earthrated.com/en/blog/the-spay-and-neuter-controversy/

Here's another interesting article I just ran across:

Some studies are showing that dogs tend to mirror their owner and emotions at home. Want a calm dog? Be a calm owner. Is your dog too high strung? Try calming your own behavior. Is your dog a worrier? Yup, some say that also can come from you…Fearful dog, are YOU worried/angry/embarrassed about his/her behavior towards something?… Studies are showing a correlation between human emotions and the dog that lives with that human. (The two breeds used in this study were herding breeds, so it caught my attention). 

While I agree to a point, I will be watching for more studies on this. Many stressed acting dogs have stressed owners though, so I find this an interesting study. Not saying I agree with it all, nor that it happens in EVERY home with EVERY dog, but it is interesting!.... Here's a summary of the article linked below:

Researchers at Linköping University have examined how stress levels in dogs are influenced by lifestyle factors and by the people that the dogs live with. Previous work has shown that individuals of the same species can mirror each others’ emotional states……….…”scientists believe that dogs mirror their owner’s stress level, rather than vice versa. The study has been published in the scientific journal Scientific Reports.”………….. “Surprisingly enough, we found no major effect of the dog’s personality on long-term stress. The personality of the owner, on the other hand, had a strong effect. This has led us to suggest that the dog mirrors its owner’s stress”, says senior lecturer Lina Roth, also at IFM, and principal investigator for the study…[I have a feeling that the Emotional Support Service Dog (TRAINED) is the exception, having been trained to help calm their person in distress] ………..”The result suggests that the match between an owner and a dog affects the dog’s stress level. Further studies are, however, needed before we can draw any conclusions about the cause of the correlation. The researchers are now planning to study other breeds. Both the border collie and the Shetland sheepdog are herding dogs, which have been bred to collaborate well with humans and respond accurately and quickly to signals.”.....

[Both competing and non competing dogs and owners were studied to see if the training/working/ competing influenced the outcome…it did not] “ Interestingly, the dogs’ activity levels did not affect HCC, nor did the amount of training sessions per week, showing that the HCC levels were not related to general physical activity. Additionally, there was a seasonal effect in HCC. However, although dogs’ personalities had little effects on their HCC, the human personality traits neuroticism, conscientiousness, and openness significantly affected dog HCC. Hence, we suggest that dogs, to a great extent, mirror the stress level of their owners.

So think about your own personalities, your expectations, your stress levels when faced with less than perfect behavior of your pup and you might find the answer to a good number of the challenges you are going through with  your pup/dog

https://neurosciencenews.com/stress-owner-dog-14181/?fbclid=IwAR1NtkhH7MVv5A5sy5C5p8NpoWpIJiBSMzcQrBNvjIprbain41pP7bgeVb0

The German Shepherd's Versatility and ability to be an Independent thinking is from it's heritage!

Versatility and the ability to be an independent thinker (necessary disobedience)  are two of the many major traits of the German Shepherd. It is a highly intelligent dog and because of this, training is a MUST. If you're not up to doing the training, PLEASE find another breed!
 Over time many of it's traits have been singled out and bred in order to do a specific job. One of these traits was the ability for guard work, such was bred into the Czech lines for Border Patrol work, another of these traits is the ability to be intelligent enough to disobey when absolutely necessary. For instance; seeing eye dogs and therapy dogs need to be extremely stable and be able to THINK independently! What if a seeing eye dog were to follow the forward command and lead it's human into the path of an on coming car? It MUST be smart enough to intelligently disobey!  All "types" can have a mix of all of these things in a litter though, they are after all, a breed known for it's versatility.

*****Here is an extremely educational interview of Manfred Heyne, (mentioned several times and with links to articles throughout our website) of an old time Champion GSD trainer/handler/owner, (an actual herder, earning more CH titles than anyone else!) and his opinions of the true "working" German Shepherd, and on instinct vs "on command" dogs: (read all the way through, I promise it will be worth it!!) Interesting information from a man that has "won more Sieger titles by far than anyone else in the hundred year history of the SV"
www.german-shepherdherding.com/the-genetic-origin-of-the-breed/

Remember: these dogs are highly intelligent!  and a mannerly, trained dog is a loved dog. Remember to be your pup's leader, teach them good things like manners / take them to obedience school, ...they look up to you for that leadership, they need someone to respect, it's in their nature. This respect is NOT earned with abuse or heavy handed tactics, it's simply a matter of simple, firm, consistent and direct "teachings". A good leader is a good TEACHER. There are several online avenues for learning how to teach your dog, and many trainers can teach a dog, so if there is a tough issue, it's probably in how you're reacting or not reacting to it. In most cases, it's the HUMAN that fails the dog when a persistent problem is at hand.

 

Training horses has the same problems.... A trainer can bring the knowledge to the animal and have huge success with them, but then when the animal goes home and the old ways of the owner are again upon the animal, it can undo all the work the trainer put in! Because this is a very common problem, it tells us these problems are NOT set in the animals, it's in the human errors. So YOU need to maintain their training, keep up the progress a trainer started, and remember, if your trainer seems to give up on a problem or is not getting the results you want, find another trainer! Every dog will have some kind of problem area, and a good trainer will not get stumped by a common problem.

 

Many of the common problems for new owners are: leash aggression, soiling in the house, puppy biting, barking, and jumping. A good trainer will have the tools (knowledge) to help stop these issues, can help you earn the respect from the pup but not break it's spirit. There is a huge difference between good healthy discipline/correction and  just being a mean bully. A trainer will need to help you through this and to understand the difference. A pup that doesn't respect you can actually challenge you later on, or can bully your you and your family. But a "beat down" pup can turn on you because there is no level of admiration, love, or  desire to please you. 

 An issue that is not properly dealt with in the beginning, can get worse, so please see a trainer if you're struggling with something. (Our pups no longer jump on nor nip at the kids once they're about  4 months old, usually before that even because I teach them not to.) BOTH the pup AND the kids need to be taught, a family pet should not think they can "get after" or 'discipline' for ANYTHING the kids do, (that is a set up for disaster!), but the kids should NEVER think they can tease and be mean to the dog either! Teach them BOTH, it's your responsibility.

So be strict, but loving... and above all be a great teacher, but pay attention to what you are teaching. For instance, by using a "divert" tactic that so many promote today, are you teaching your pup that bad behavior can earn them playtime with you? Many owners get into that trap and don't understand what went wrong, their dog is getting more and more belligerent in it's disruptive behavior, and the owners don't get any peace when the dog wants something. The 'divert' is a must have tool, but can easily be misused as well. Sometimes that owner will escalate the problem without even knowing they're doing it. 

 

Obedience training is an excellent place to start when they're young, and can most often be done at home, by the owner.  But if you have an issue you're not making progress in, PLEASE see a good trainer, it can make a difference between training success and blaming the pup or even the breed. That blame makes things even worse then, it is counterproductive and often results in frustration and anger for you, and may even place fear on the pup (they ARE babies after all) because it reads your emotions, and the end result is usually the "dumping" of him/her. So be a good pup parent and seek training help with any "stuck issues", it's only fair to the pup to make sure you know and learn as much as you can in order to be the best pet parent you can be.

 

They're dogs, not 4 legged humans! Many problems can come up when "human thinking" is expected of the dogs. The 'human thinking' style of training fails over and over, and over again, yet so many seem intent on sticking with it, and that is causing more and more dogs to be "given up on" by their owners. Did you know that most dogs that are 'owner relinquished' to shelters, are usually given up on due to 'behavioral issues'? That's just sad. Dogs do NOT think like people do, (yet humans tend to insist that they do) and good training can fix most all problems, the human just needs to be willing to open their mind, be willing to get down to the basic 'dog level' of thinking, and understand the dogs' language. The owner needs to WANT to keep their fur baby enough to do this for them.

 

Facts show that most dogs' problems reflect on who is currently at the end of the leash.

For instance: Watch a 'problem' dog with their owner and watch the problems arise. No matter how many times the owner tries to "correct", the dog ignores them.

Then watch the same dog with a trainer who knows what they're doing, and within a few short minutes (if the issue isn't a serious one), they have the dog listening and behaving! Amazing? Well no it's just that the trainer has a different attitude with the dog.....Then watch the dog again with their owner and watch the dog in a short time start to ignore all the work the trainer JUST put in. Same dog / HUGE difference. ....This tells us it's the owner that isn't "getting it", not the dog! 

In my own home, mine are quick to follow my commands but slower to follow the kids' same commands. Another proof is that a "rescued" dog from a shelter, given up for behavioral issues, CAN be an amazing dog with the right training! In fact it's such a big business there are even shows on that topic. Here is a link to a great channel that helps a lot of new pet owners with basic care and even training problems: http://fidotvchannel.com/#  Another one of my favorites on that channel was 'Tibor to the Rescue' (although now I cannot find an online link to those episodes). His information for training is there, but not the actual episodes.  "At the End of my Leash"  deals with unusual or extreme problems that often cause bigger problems in the family unit,  and "Tibor to the Rescue", also deals with training issues, but  features rescued adoptions. You might get some good training tips from these two, but more importantly they show how even the most disruptive behaviors can be corrected with the right teacher.

 

......So choose your training carefully, if one trainer isn't getting the results you are looking for, you need to find out why, or choose another trainer/method that fits you and your pup. If you're PAYING a trainer, that trainer SHOULD be able to get the results you desire IF they're a true and educated trainer. There are many "just the basics" type trainers out there, so if you come up against a real problem and your trainer doesn't know what to do about it, you need to find a more 'in depth' trainer or the problem could escalate. Be responsible, ask the trainer questions, a good, experienced trainer will not be stumped with a common behavior problem such as leash aggression, dominance issue, disobedience problems, etc. 9 times out of 10 it is caused by something the owner is doing or not doing, and once that is discovered and "fixed" things settle right down. Know  what you want and work towards that goal from the very beginning.

 

 If you want a family guard, then please don't stop the "alerting" behavior when they're puppies. Many people train it right out of them without even realizing it. Example: If they are alerting to someone coming up the drive, let them bark the alert! If they hear something outside, investigate it with them, and praise them for "letting you know it was there". Once you have investigated the alert, they can be told to settle down, their job was done well, and now it's time to quit barking and behave. The leader (you) has taken control of "the situation".

.....You need to be encouraging of the good behaviors and not tolerant of the bad. Try not to encourage the bad behavior, (and that seems to be particularly difficult, especially with puppies because they can be so darn cute when they're doing it) but bad behavior should never be rewarded with positive attention, treat, or praise. ** I had one family call with a problem of the dog's (about 9 mo old by then) constant interruption when she got on the phone. Now, she worked out of the home office so this was becoming a real problem! It turned out that she would "divert with a toy" as some trainers had suggested, so then the dog had learned that the "phone time" was a perfect time to get some playtime in with her. She would play tug of war to keep him from barking or disrupting her while on the phone. A better solution was to put him out or in a down stay if he wanted to act up like that. Once I pointed that out (he actually started it as soon as we were on the phone) she noticed it. He stopped as soon as she stopped catering to it. 

 

So be careful to not remove the behaviors you want to keep, but to curb the behaviors you don't want. They will catch on to the difference. For instance, nuisance barking is a "no no" around here, but a valid reason for barking is good.... Mine know the difference!

 

ALL dogs can be good dogs, it just depends on HOW they are being taught.

Be responsible, ALWAYS be the good leader, and be consistent

One size does NOT fit all!

 

Competition / Sport training vs real life situations:

 

Curiosity got to me after a conversation regarding a SCH titled dog allowing a burglar into someone's home.

I thought this was ridiculous and must be a mistake! We've always had family trained dogs and there is no way anyone was getting past ours! So this stunned me and I didn't believe it. But after some research I learned there is a difference between "schutzhund" trained dogs and real life situation trained dogs. I found trainers that state "there is a definite difference between true protection dogs and sport protection dogs". Many families think they are the same and some trainers actually allow that thought to be accepted, but I learned that there is indeed a big difference.

 

Unfortunately, this misunderstanding is fairly common. The dogs trained for sport bite games respond very well to the atmosphere and commands of the sport they are trained for, but may not respond at all when there is a real life need for their response. They do well in the game scenario, but without the accustomed atmosphere, commands, heightened expectation of "the chase", or the game items such as the bite suits or sleeves, they may be unresponsive....... I found that very interesting.

In any case, most German Shepherds have a protective instinct naturally. Remember though that they are not clones any more than we humans are. Check the different lineages. Family lines are usually a little less hyper not usually overly aggressive, (those high drive types are usually the ones used in Police work, called the 'working' lines). However, if you want your pup to be alerting and protective as an adult dog, please don't use a lot of "quiet!" type of corrections early on, especially when they think they're "alert barking". If you want them to alert when they're grown, don't correct them for it when they're very young. (there is a big difference between  "annoying non-specific barking" and a serious 'alert' bark. Also remember that training a young pup (to about 7 or 8 months) should be in the positive reinforcement style (encouragement/praise for the correct behavior with necessary corrections being kept to a minimum) Using too much correction training when too young, can break their spirit / confidence. Here's a good article that places focus on the protection dog. I don't agree with everything they do, but I do agree on a lot of it. It's a good place to start though, (please use your own judgement and common sense when reading anything), and you can research more on the subject of serious training as you want or need to : http://leerburg.com/qapropup.htm

                                                                      

                                                                 *******************************************************************************

 

In any case, a pup's training from the start, within a day or two of them settling into your home, is very very important! Alert and protective are good traits only if they are fully and calmly controlled as adults to: "stop" or "quiet" or "down", or whatever "word" the person chooses, in order for the owner to always be in charge. The words sit, wait, no, & 'off' are started while they are still here, it's just a normal part of their environment while here with us, but it is up to you to take it from there and "heel" should be the next one to learn in order to have the awesome dog they are capable of becoming.

 

Here is a link to a short clip of our puppies, but watch towards the end. (it's on youtube, just click on the link provided).........The mom (in this case Yva) alerts, goes forward with the "alert" and protective instinct, but stops and obeys at my calm but firm command, and returns to a place of quiet control yet remains alert.

****Because we don't make this behavior a game or "set up the scenes", I was lucky enough to catch the natural and candid action on video while I was recording the puppies for their future families, YAY!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=69W11T4Qc3g&feature=youtu.be

No matter what your long term goal is, just remember to start the training early! They are fully capable of learning simple things right from the start, like Sit, No, Off, etc. Start them off right and you'll all be happier in the long run

Tugging/biting on appropriate things ONLY!

Give them an outlet for this need!

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